Asso Twinning Festival 2026: greasy pole, horses and 25 years of friendship

Five in the morning: over the Gotthard to Italy

The night was short. At five in the morning the car was packed and we rolled south. Around 650 kilometres lie between the Odenwald wine island and the Vallassina, and apart from the obligatory traffic jam in front of the Gotthard tunnel, the journey went surprisingly smoothly.

In the early afternoon we pitched our camp at the Asso sports ground, under big trees and with a view of the mountains. The first official act was, quite fittingly, a pizza. Then a quick shop, a moment to catch our breath – and off we went to the town hall.

Reception, banquet and the Palo della Cuccagna

In front of the town hall, decorated with colourful bunting and the flags of Europe, Italy and Lombardy, we were warmly welcomed and immediately met Jutta Burghardt and Lea Siegler, who had travelled to Asso as the official delegation of the town of Groß-Umstadt. In the evening the Pro Asso laid the long tables on the Piazza Mercato for all the European delegations. Under a wooden roof full of flags from five countries there were regional specialities, a cool beer and an instantly great atmosphere.

The real highlight of the evening came around half past nine: the Palo della Cuccagna, known to us as the greasy pole. Teams of climbers in yellow rubber boots quite literally piled on top of each other to conquer the grease-smeared pole and reach the top. If you would like to learn about the tradition behind it, the Wikipedia article on the Albero della cuccagna tells the story of this old folk-festival custom.

It was pure madness how acrobatically and with what physical effort the teams worked their way up. A selfie with one of the daring and well-smeared climbers naturally had to follow. A DJ then provided the right beats until midnight – a sensational start to this weekend.

Saturday morning on the Largo Saint-Péray

Punctually at 9:30 am the delegations met at the Largo Saint-Péray – a square whose name already reveals how deeply rooted the friendship between Asso and the Ardèche is. School classes from the Istituto Segantini, the mayor and the representatives of the partner towns greeted one another in glorious weather. On the roundabout next to it the flags of Germany, Portugal, Italy and France fluttered side by side against the backdrop of the green mountains.

After that we simply let ourselves drift. In the alleys, market stalls with crafts and regional products stood in a row, lovingly maintained vintage cars were parked in front of the palazzo, including several Fiat 500s. The steps of the parish church of San Giovanni Battista were decorated with large letters reading “ASSO SAINT-PERAY”, and the inside of the church with its artistic decorations also impressed us greatly.

The 43rd horse fair at the Oratorio

We continued to the football pitch at the Oratorio, where the 43rd horse fair was in full swing. Horses, ponies and donkeys were shown, children could get into the saddle for the first time at the “First Ride Experience”, and at the edge a woodcarver used a chainsaw to carve figures from thick trunks. It was wonderful to watch this family atmosphere up close.

At midday all the delegations came together for a shared meal. At long tables laid in yellow and green there were antipasti, wine and above all time for conversation – in Italian, French, Portuguese, Spanish and German, often in all of them at once.

25 years of Asso and Saint-Péray: the ceremony on the Piazza Ratti

After a break at the camp we headed in the late afternoon to the official heart of the Asso Twinning Festival, the ceremony on the Piazza Ratti. The Alpini band “Angelo Masciadri” marched through the old town in uniform with saxophones and drums and then played the anthems of the participating countries.

On stage, not only was the 25th anniversary of the twinning between Asso and Saint-Péray celebrated, but also the friendship pact with Dicomano and Santo Tirso. Jutta Burghardt and Lea Siegler stood on the square for Groß-Umstadt. The representatives of the partner towns lined up in their sashes in the national colours for the shared commemorative photo – a picture that says more about Europe than any speech.

We let the evening wind down in a relaxed way at a pizzeria by the station. The walk back took us over the old stone bridge across the Lambro, warmly lit against the dark mountains. An almost magical end to this long day.

Sunday: boccia, buffet and a birthday cake

Sunday began sociably at the municipal boccia centre, where the Asso d’Argento had invited everyone for an aperitif. The hosts had outdone themselves again: a huge buffet with salami, cheese, puff pastry and small snacks, plus a spritz to toast with.

At the boccia tournament that followed, on the professional indoor lanes, things got sporty, and we could really enjoy the time with the guests from all the delegations. Then there was a heartwarming surprise: a large fruit cake with glowing sparklers was carried in, and Enzo, a fellow citizen of Asso, was duly celebrated in a big circle.

To the stars in Sormano

In the afternoon we went up into the mountains, to over 1,100 metres, to the new astronomical observatory at the Colma di Sormano. The drive alone, with its views over valleys and peaks, was an experience. At the top we were able to take a look at the large telescope under the dome and enjoyed a fascinating planetarium show with constellations, the Milky Way and the surface of the Moon.

To crown it all we drove on to Pian del Tivano, where the GASP – the Asso Saint-Péray Group – had invited us to the farewell dinner at the Agriturismo Binda. The rustic hall was hung full of European flags, name cards stood on the tables, and a lavish antipasti platter, pasta and unbelievably good ravioli with bacon came to the table. For dessert there was a cake for the 25th anniversary of the Asso – Saint-Péray twinning, and with good wine and warm farewell words a wonderful festival of friendship came to an end.

What we take away from Asso

Asso has shown us how far the circles of our twinning now reach. What began in 1966 with Saint-Péray has created friendships that today link Groß-Umstadt with a small town in Lombardy that is officially not even our partner town and yet feels like one. Five countries at one table, without anyone having to translate in order to understand one another.

This is precisely where our committee’s charitable mission lies: international understanding, cultural exchange and a humanist worldview that is best experienced at a table on the Piazza Mercato or while cheering together at the greasy pole. You can learn more about our hosts on the official website of the municipality of Asso or in the Wikipedia article on Asso (in German).

Join us on the next trip

Did reading this make you want to celebrate with our friends in Europe yourself? The partner towns offer festivals all year round, and in Groß-Umstadt too there is always something going on. As early as 24 October we invite you to the French wine tasting, and on 25 October the Italian regulars’ table meets – the perfect place to hear about Asso and to make plans for next year.

You will find all the dates in our events calendar. And if you would like to join us on the next trip yourself, then become a member now and help us shape an open, friendly Europe.